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Engine Oil / Crankcase Treatment: The Test Results

A head-to-head test of 1 engine oil / crankcase treatment options with the measured results for each. See how they ranked and watch the full test video.

The verdict
Ranked first

Diesel fuel

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The measured results

Every number below is read straight from the test. Scroll sideways to see all measurements. Products are listed in the order they finished.

ProductLubricity Test Pure DieselLubricity Test Diesel Oil MixSafety Data Sheet FiguresEngine Rpm TestPost Run Filter InspectionSludge Cleaning ComparisonOverheating ObservationCompression Test
1Diesel fuel100% diesel on the lubricity tester's bearing showed a lot more scoring/damage than 10W-30 oil, described as clearly not a very good lubricant compared to conventional 10W-30a one-part-diesel-to-four-parts-oil mix showed only a little bit more bearing damage than 10W-30 alone, described as not a whole lot of difference and not likely to cause catastrophic engine failureflash point 126 to 152 F (51.6 to 66.6 C), boiling point 320 to 700 F, autoignition temperature 490 to 545 F; narrator notes the autoignition temperature is high enough that fire risk from running the engine is unlikely, but the relatively low 320 F boiling point means a lot of the diesel may flash off/evaporate while the engine runsbaseline with 10W-30 oil (from a previous video, same fixed-throttle/no-governor small engine setup) was just under 3,400 RPM; no specific RPM figure is given anywhere in this transcript for the engine running on straight diesel, a genuine gap rather than a caption errordiesel drained from the crankcase after the run showed a metallic color, and filtering it through a coffee filter revealed a noticeable amount of metal glitter, interpreted as evidence of engine wear/damage from inadequate lubricationa bolt run for 10 minutes in plain 10W-30 detergent oil retained quite a bit of visible sludge; a second bolt run for 10 minutes after draining off oil and adding an equal 3 oz of diesel (a roughly 1:1 mix, a different ratio than the 1-part-to-4 ratio used in the lubricity test) came out visibly cleaner, described as doing a better job than plain oil at removing sludgethe engine appeared to overheat running on straight diesel and had to be stopped around the 30 minute mark to top off diesel that had evaporated offlost a couple of PSI on a compression test after the straight-diesel run, described as not a good thing

How it was tested

  • lubricity/film strength test (pure diesel and a diesel/oil mix vs. 10W-30 oil alone)
  • safety data sheet review (flash point, boiling point, autoignition temperature)
  • small engine no-load RPM test (fixed throttle, disconnected governor) to detect increased internal friction
  • post-run filter inspection for metal debris
  • sludge cleaning comparison (diesel/oil mix vs. plain oil)
  • engine overheating observation during a straight-diesel run
  • compression test after the straight-diesel run

On the lubricity test, it was quite interesting to see that diesel in and of itself is not a very good lubricant. However, when mixed with oil, it does seem to do a decent job. Not a great job, but not a huge loss. So, for the old-timers that recommended adding a little diesel to the oil just before the change, it doesn't seem to be necessarily a bad idea. However, I cannot recommend doing this because anything you add to the crankcase of an engine besides what's meant to go in there has potential to cause damage.

From the test video verdict.

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